Thursday, 25 November 2010

Lazer

AD208

Lazer Cutting


Due to my embellishment having so many pattern pieces which needed to be individually cut out, pressed and secured, it was suggested to me to try the lazer machine to see how it reacted with my fabric.



It took several attempts and different settings to create the correct effect for my fabric.


Once I had established the I was able to use the lazer cutter I then had to make a definite number on the  scale and amount of pieces I needed.


The process of each star is complex and took about 10-15minutes per star, there are just under 60 stars to create the embellishment for the design.

 

Wednesday, 24 November 2010

Gather Your Thoughts

AD208

Gathering the Bodice



To do this I almost tripled the length of the bodice in fabric and then bunched the fabric up and used pins to secure. The gathers where then later sewn into place at the seams.



It was difficult to get the shape of the gathers right at the top of the bodice due to the tricky structure.


I found the best way to do this was to put less gathers into the point areas, this made the fabric easier to manipulate into the top of the bodice.


Friday, 19 November 2010

Like a Fairy

AD208

The Petticoat 

The Underskirt


I placed the net skirt underneath the dress (so far) to see how much volume was needed, baring in mind when all of the embellishment is attached it will weigh it down quite a bit.

Thursday, 18 November 2010

Over the Hills and Far Away

AD208

Lining and Petticoat Construction
                                            
 I didn't make a toile for the petticoat as the general shape is quite simple and just a little bit shorter than the actual skirt of the dress, the layers of net however take several hours to cut, sew, gather, then sew onto the petticoat in the correct position to create the right effect.


I also cut the final skirt pattern piece out today.


These two images show close ups of the net construction.

Thursday, 11 November 2010

With Arms Outstretched

AD208  

Garment Manufacture
Documentation of Garment
 I decided to use a white cotton for the lining of my bodice as it would strengthen the structure a lot more than a thin polyester lining.

 Because there are so many layers involved in the making of the bodice, this allowed me to sew the boning onto the outer layer which would make the silhouette of the bodice more defined, normally the boning is attached to the lining unless it is a design feature. 

 Here are both the bodice front and back with boning attached.

 I pinned the bodice onto the mannequin to see how the boning would help the fabric stand away from the body.

I then used another student to see how/if the boning and the fit of the bodice would differ when on an actual person, taking into consideration different ways the skin moves to adjust to clothing.

I think it would be more beneficial to fit the dress to an actual person rather than a mannequin but still using a standard size 12.

Wednesday, 10 November 2010

Hand in - Goodbye Sketchbook

AD203 Art & Design Method 2








AD208



The Line Up

After hand in there was a critique on every body's finished toiles. It was interesting to hear how each student wanted their design to be perceived when it was completed, our imaginations ran wild as we described what the final garment would look like; talking about fabrics and components.

I was pleased with the feedback I received about my idea, the construction of my toile and at the same time slightly apprehensive at the extent of work I was told I would have to put into the garment's embellishment.  Nevertheless I am excited to get going tomorrow!!




Monday, 8 November 2010

CAD Solutions

ETIGRAPH is an global company specialized in the development of CAD/CAM and PDM solutions for Fashion and apparel and technical textile industries. 


Our organisation offers a range of software and hardware products and services to include all the sectors involved in pattern making and in the cutting of soft materials:

-          Fashion textiles

-          Kevlar,

-          Foam,

-          Leather,

-          Glass fibre

-          Carbon fibre

-          Cardboard,


Vetigraph® solutions are used worldwide - Europe, United States, North Africa, Middle East, Far East, South America - and sold through a network of affiliated companies, distributors and agents.


Vetigraph UK has been involved with fashion Houses, designers and CMT organisations such as Coppernob, John Zack, Dream Girl, Marie Chantal, for a number of years.


With its UK head office based in East Sussex and The Workshop as a training partner in North London, Vetigraph is organised to provide for the requirements clients all over the UK. 


Products include:

-          Vetigraph® CAD Solutions:

-           Computer Aided Design solutions for pattern making, grading, fabric optimisation and marker making in the fields of fashion and apparel related industries.


Veti Pattern Design and Grading Module: 


Digitizing, pattern making, Pattern construction (pleats, darts, hem line functions),  Made to Measure, pattern modifications, pattern grading, controls, database.


Fusing patterns whilst rotating grading, creation of turn-ups, facings, slits, creases, etc., grading and cutting out a yoke, creation of a pattern by extraction and automatic display of seam allowance, smoothening and rectifying curves, automatic introduction of seam allowance on base patterns.


Cut Planning by "analogy", including several styles in the same marker, matching checked fabric, marker for tubular fabric, stretching or narrowing the width of a fabric, displaying of production data: fabric efficiency, total length of marker, average fabric utilization,






Saturday, 6 November 2010

An Educated Fellow


Brazilian Japanese designer Jum Nakao can create such stunning pieces out of paper, I wonder what would be produced if he was given more?! Educated at the Coordination Industrial Textiles, his collection features suspenseful and fairytale-like themes.

Thursday, 4 November 2010

Racing Like a Pro

AD208

Final Toile 
I had to make a few adjustments around the hip area after fitting it to an actual person, it was clear that the bodice needed to be of a tighter fit to hold the weight of the skirt.

To demonstrate the embellishment I created one sample then photocopied it several times to show what it would look like.

The Line Up

Wednesday, 3 November 2010

Perfection


In a buoyant market full of confident consumers and retailers, you may be successful with good products and good designs.

But in a tough market with depressed confidence, you need great designs and great products to stand out in a competitive market place.
This very same principle applies to job searching in a tight job market. There are still jobs out there – but it’s just very competitive trying to secure interviews.
You need to stand out in order to secure interviews. And you do that by ensuring your CV is not just ‘good’ – but is in fact ‘Great!’
Here’s a quick summary of the difference between a good CV and a great CV.
A GOOD CV
Here are some basic guidelines of a good CV
• In the UK and Europe, aim to have a 2-page CV. 3 pages at the very most. In the US and Canada the aim should be 1 page (2 at the most) 
• Keep it simple – no fancy borders or colours. Simple black ink on good quality white or cream paper (if sending hard copies)
• Completed on Word (not PDF) so that it is easy to edit, email and forward by recruiters and HR teams
• Ensure you have sections for “education & professional qualifications” and “career history”
• Add in sections where you detail language skills and relevant technology skills (e.g. CAD)
• Have a short and simple section that lists your hobbies and interests
• Ensure any gaps on your CV are explained
• It is customary for the career history to be detailed in reverse chronological order so that you start with your most recent employment
Overall the CV must provide an accurate history of what you have done in a logical and well-laid out manner
A GREAT CV
A great CV has all the above as standard, but goes much further to make it stand out.
A great CV focuses on giving the reader a high-level overview of what you were accountable for in each job but is heavily focused on what you delivered in terms of results, rather than what you were responsible for.
The reader should understand clearly the value and benefits you can offer a future employer and so see the benefit in meeting with you.
In practical terms, A great CV:
• Opens with a series of key achievements which are relevant to the job you are applying for
• The achievements are not clichés, but fact-based statements demonstrating what you have achieved in your career and the results you have delivered to date
• These results show how you delivered the commercial outcomes your potential employers want – e.g. “increased revenues”,  “growth in client base” “reduced costs”, “reduced stock holding” “reduced lead times”, ”improved service levels” (you may not have directly achieved these, but will have contributed towards such results)
• Quantifies the achievements with measurable, tangible results 
• Gives the reader an indication of the size and scale of the jobs: size of company, team, number of clients, geographical spread of clients
• Uses powerful language: so instead of saying “was responsible for..”. use action-phrases such as “initiated” “challenged” “led” “reinvented” “pioneered” that show you in a better (but still accurate) light
• Is tailored and adjusted to the requirements of each individual job application. Within 5 seconds the reader should be able to see how you match their key criteria
• Is easy to read and imparts information with bullet points and short sentences 
• Effectively promotes the soft skills: instead of just saying “strong communicator, great team-player etc” - a great CV backs these up with examples which demonstrate these qualities
Fundamentally, a Great CV shows you to be unique and different from other people (in much the same way a great garment is very different from similar but inferior products).
Admittedly, if your background is nowhere near what an employer is looking for, then even a great CV won’t get you an interview. But if you are applying for roles that are relevant, then taking some time to introduce some of these elements into your CV will make a difference.
Like anything to do with your job search (and indeed the fashion industry)producing a great product or CV is an evolving process where you try things, learn and adapt as you go based on feedback. So don’t look at the above and be too perfectionist; just make some immediate changes and then get out and start testing.


Tuesday, 2 November 2010

I Heart The Pen Tool


Below there are screenshots of drawing exercises I completed on Adobe illustrator, the purpose of these exercises was to re-cap and re-fine skills gained from using the pen tool in first year.


Monday, 1 November 2010

Style Lab


Raymond Queneau
A French Poet and Novelist who told the same story 99 times, 99 ways..

Exercices de Style
Applies the same idea...